The following section identifies general key styling rules with regard to face shape. These rules apply for both male and female clients. Where relevant, make-up and fashion advice is also given. Many salons now offer make-up as an additional service; at the very least, offering make-up advice to your client will enhance the feel-good factor. Remember, do not be critical about your client's existing make-up or appearance!
The oval face is considered in the world of fashion to be the ideal form, showing symmetry and balance, and is therefore the ideal base for the majority of hairstyles. As always, it is also important to match client personality and practical hair needs as well as looking at their overall body shape. In addition the shape of prominent features such as the neck, ears or hairline will determine the final choice of hairstyle.
An oval face creates the impression of soft, flowing lines that perfectly complement feminine appearance. An oval face is a perfect match for classic long hair or for short avant-garde styles. Aim to complement natural features, for example if your client is small and petite a large-volume style may not suit!
When applying make-up focus on contrasts to make the most of features, for example highlighting eyes and lips. Foundation should be even: avoid multiple shades of colour. Keep the palette simple.
This face shape is typically characterised by a wide, flat forehead and pointed chin, large ears or a long neck will emphasise this.
Compensate by applying the reverse-shape hairstyle, with more weight and volume around the neck and ears and less on top of the head and around the forehead. A slim neck and pointed chin can be compens ated by longer hair in the nape area. Use forming techniques to build body and shape where appropriate.
When applying make-up, use a darker shade of foundation on the chin and a lighter shade on the cheeks, lipstick should match complexion; avoid dark shades around the eyes. This technique will ensure that the eye is drawn away from the chin and forehead, creating the impression of a more symmetrical face shape.
Characteristics include small chin and narrow forehead with full cheeks.
Try to build volume and fullness on top of the head, whilst ensuring that the sides remain as closely cut as possible. This will help to create a more balanced outline. Longer hair should be cut at collarbone level, avoid cutting a jaw-length or cheek-length bob at all costs as this will accentuate the width of the face. With shorter hairstyles try to create longer contours in front of the ears; similarly where t he hair is piled on top of the head, pull down a few strands to help create length.
When wearing make-up, apply a darker shade to the cheekbones in order to detract from this area. Discreet make-up is recommended for the eyes and mouth. Experiment with longer earrings in order to help the illusion of length.
A broad, flat forehead, straight cheek lines and prominent chin line result in a square face shape. A hairstyle is required to soften this look in order to avoid the impression of severity.
Avoid straight or close-fitting shapes, try to create oval or round contours, for example by using a round styling brush or curling tongs. With longer hair, pulling out a few curls or wisps at the side will help the softening effect. Do not pull the hair into the face, use warm shades of colour and added movement to conceal hard angles.
Use darker shades of foundation at the edges of the face and lighter shades in the centre to create an oval illusion. In this instance, intensive, striking eye make-up will help to draw the eye to the centre of the face, however this should match client personality and lifestyle. Use a discreet lipstick colour and experiment with long earrings.
