To design a successful form, first analyse the hair to determine what tools and products can be used. The next stage is to consider the existing length and style of the hair; cut, in combination with rod size, will have most influence on the final look. Use the guidelines below to help visualise this:
(see image Creating Solid Form)
The hair is cut to provide maximum weight in the lengths. This works best with longer hair and the ends forming a straight line at the base. Form can be used to provide texture and curl through the mid-lengths to ends.
(see image Creating Graduated Form)
Hair is cut to medium length with the lengths graduated so that the ends become longer towards the nape. This style works well with a form designed to provide volume and width. Remember that adding curls will shift the line of this style upwards.
(see image Creating Increase Layered Form)
Cutting the hair shorter on the top, then with increasingly long layers, will dramatically affect the final formed look. This is particularly useful when a client requires interior volume whilst retaining length.
(see image Creating Uniformly Layered Form)
Hair is cut in roughly equal lengths throughout. Curls can be uniform or alternating to produce a soft, natural, textured look.
(see image Creating Partial Form)
Combine short and long lengths to create contrast and focus. Use forming techniques to change the structure and create texture. This can work well with short sides and a long top.
(see image The Effect of Rod Size on Curl Diameter)
Can further accentuate or reduce the impact of the hair shape. If the same size rods are used throughout the hair, this will maintain the exact shape of the cut, whilst adding more body and texture. However if the rod size is varied or reversed, a whole range of styles can be produced.
As above, the same rod size is used throughout.
Rods can start large and get progressively smaller or start small and get progressively larger. This method results in more volume and texture towards the front or the back. Remember that hair length will influence shape. A large rod on shorter hair will have a different result to a large rod on longer hair.
Rather than uniformly changing rod size, try alternating between two or more sizes. This can create a more natural look. Wild fashion looks can be created using different shaped tools if so desired.
The winding pattern and placement of styling tools will influence form design. Rods or stylers may be placed in specific locations, or they may cover the entire head. Winding patterns can go from front to back, side to side, or in a twisting pattern. There are hundreds of different ways to wind hair and each pattern usually requires sectioning the hair differently.
Finally, the type of styler will influence your design. There are many to choose from producing different shaped curls as well as curl size, and these vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.